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    I know I was wondering what to expect from this Near North restaurant helmed by Katsuji Tanabe of “Top Chef” fame.As the Tribune reported around the time Barrio opened last summer, look for “Mexican-ish” here.They’re big — you may want to share — but are wonderfully light and airy.Served alongside are small pots of salty caramel sauce, rich chocolate and a vanilla crema.As we walked out, back into the stark, cold street, something Jack Kerouac wrote in “The Dharma Bums” came to mind: “I think it’s all lovely hallucination but I love it sorta.”Chicago abounds with tamales.You can grab them at grocery stores, order them at an untold number of Mexican restaurants and pick them up by the dozen from vendors on select street corners.The cornbread arrives in a cast-iron pan, is firm enough to slice neatly and eat in-hand, yet sports a texture so delightfully loose and crumbly that you may worry — needlessly — that it will fall apart.

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    A curving window wall in the bar takes in the action at the corner of Kinzie and Clark streets — a perfect perch for people watching during the holiday season.65 W.From the exuberantly ornate dining room to the best dishes on the menu, the West Loop restaurant delights in serving up layers upon layers of style. A beet hummus kicked off a recent meal with sparks of citrus zest and dusky notes of clove, offset by the crunch of fried chickpeas and the salty tang of blue cheese.Other highlights included a side of broccolini, which combined fish sauce, puffed rice and pomegranate seeds to offer a smoky, umami crunch; curry meatballs, served on a pillow of mashed peas and punctuated with a nice dose of heat; and a near-perfect apple cake, as interesting as it was comforting, spiced and studded with tender chunks of warm apple, melted meringue and crisp tuiles.Lunch is a creative take on Mexican dishes and flavors that pull in American and Japanese additions.Asked for his recommendations, the server immediately pointed to two starters: grilled octopus () and cornbread ().

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